One of the best museums in the city lies a block south of the Plaza de la Independencia. The Museo Casa de la Zacatecana is an expertly preserved eighteenth-century mansion, incredibly evocative of the period and enhanced with English videos and English labels throughout. The rooms are filled with over six hundred pieces of art and furniture, but the real draw (for Mexican tourists, at least) is the grisly legend associated with the house. Less macabre highlights include the fascinating “universal history” parchment (1882) in Sala 1, with global cultures displayed like branches of a tree, and the Salon de los Cristos upstairs, containing 54 crucifixes and a Miguel Cabrera painting of the cross (1746). The Salon de los Rejoles overflows with 39 antique clocks – an interesting way to present what would otherwise be fairly dry exhibits.

As for the legend, the story goes that the original owner – from Zacatecas – was murdered by his wife (she was rumoured to have had lovers). Soon after this the evil zacatecana was also stabbed to death mysteriously. Years later, human bones were dug up in the back of the house – but there were two skeletons, not one, prompting some to believe the wife had also murdered the killer she had hired to murder her husband; ghosts have been seen here ever since.

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