A perfectly preserved, late medieval Adriatic settlement squeezed onto a slender peninsula, RAB TOWN is famous for the quartet of Romanesque campaniles that run along its Old Town’s central ridge. It’s a genuinely lovely place: a tiny grey-and-ochre city, enlivened with splashes of green palm, huddles of leaning junipers and sprigs of olive-coloured cacti which push their way up between balconied palaces. The population today is only a third of what it was in Rab’s fourteenth-century heyday, although it’s swelled significantly by the influx of summer visitors, who create a lively holiday atmosphere without overly compromising the town’s medieval character.
The Old Town divides into two parts: Kaldanac, the oldest quarter, at the end of the peninsula, and Varoš, which dates from between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries. Together they make up a compact and easily explored grid of alleyways traversed by three parallel thoroughfares: Donja (Lower), Srednja (Middle) and Gornja (Upper) ulice.