Towering above Dubrovnik to the north, the 412-metre summit of Mount Srđ offers stunning views of the walled town below, with a panorama of the whole coast stretching as far as the Pelješac peninsula to the northwest. Quickest way to get here is by cable car, which was destroyed by attackers in 1991 and reopened to much fanfare some twenty years later. It’s a breathtaking, super-smooth ride, the only drawback being that the journey lasts a mere two minutes. At the top, the Panorama café-restaurant (same times as the cable car) has a viewing terrace and is only slightly more expensive than similarly touristy restaurants back in town.

The mountain seems a world away from the lush subtropical world of the coastal strip, with bare stone and scrub stretching as far as the eye can see. In spring and early summer, the scrub is covered in daisies and bright-pommelled thistles. Otherwise nothing much grows here apart from sage, which is hungrily devoured by the local sheep and goats.

The highland plateau immediately north of the summit has been earmarked as the future sight of Dubrovnik’s golf course – although this anti-ecological exercise has not met with unanimous local support.

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