The best way to explore Šolta’s interior is to walk or cycle along the combination of old tarmacked roads and gravel tracks that head west from Grohote towards the villages of Srednje Selo and Donje Selo before finally arriving at Maslinica at the island’s western tip. It takes around ninety minutes to do the whole lot on foot. There are no shops or konobe on the way.

Start by following the road west from Grohote church, which runs along the north side of Šoltansko polje, the strip of cultivable land that stretches along the middle of the island, passing dry-stone-walled olive groves before arriving at Srednje Selo, a village of chunky stone houses roofed with thick stone slabs. Domestic gardens are choked with bougainvillea, palms and fruit trees. Continue west to the next village, Donje Selo, where you will see more of the same. If you have time for a side-trip, take a road that leads north out of Donje Selo and over the hump of a hill before descending through olive groves to Donja Krušica, a small cove with an attractive beach. West of Donje Selo, a signed gravel track continues through maquis towards Maslinica, where you will be rewarded with fine maritime views before descending into the village.

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