Nothing reflects Šibenik’s urban makeover quite so much as St Michael’s Fortress (Kaštel svetog Mihovila), the previously neglected hilltop fortress transformed into top visitor attraction and concert venue. Reopened in 2014 after an EU-funded facelift, the fortress is both an atmospheric piece of history and a great place to catch a gig. Situated at the Old Town’s highest point, it’s an easy uphill stroll along stepped streets.

Constructed by the Venetians on top of an earlier Croatian citadel, the fortress affords a superb panorama of the Old Town (including a clear view of the cathedral’s roof), Šibenik Bay beyond, and the endless green ripple of offshore islands in the background. A modest scattering of exhibits reveal the history of the fort, although it’s really the setting, and the terraced auditorium seating in the central keep, that takes your breath away. A pair of defensive walls connect the fortress with the seafront just below – the passage that ran between them was intended to help the defenders retreat to their boats in the event of an Ottoman siege.

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