Furthest from the mainland, the largest of the islands, Gili Trawangan attracts the greatest number of visitors (many of whom come for the magic mushrooms for which the island is infamous) and is the most developed. The southeast of the island is wall-to-wall guesthouses, restaurants and dive shops, although it is still low-key and relaxing outside the high season. For quieter surroundings, head further north.

Island transport is by cidomo (horse and cart), or you can rent bicycles – particularly popular at sunset for reaching the hundred-metre hill, from which you can enjoy stunning views of the Bali volcanoes with the sky blazing behind. To get there, follow any of the tracks from the southern end of the island, but be sure to return before dark, as riding through the sand is fairly hazardous. A walk around the island, less than 3km long by 2km at its widest part, takes four hours or less. The northern end of the east coast is popular for snorkelling: most people hang out here during the day, and there are plenty of restaurants nearby.

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