Nestling among lush rice paddies, the village of Moni exudes a lazy charm. Full of homestays and little family-run cafés, it’s a relaxed place to spend a few days, with great walking in the surrounding hills. There is no bank or post office in Moni, despite the increasing number of tourists; but you can make phone calls at the tiny wartel off the main road, and the Bintang Restaurant offers internet access. There’s a small book exchange in the nearby village of Woloara, off the road to Maumere.

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