The most popular destination near Bajawa is the hot springs at Soa. The springs are set in peaceful surroundings, and a small but powerful waterfall provides the cheapest hot shower on Flores. Bemos from Bajawa market run to Soa village, from where you can pick up an ojek for the remaining 6km to the springs – you’ll need to ask your driver to wait if you don’t want to walk back. There are some quieter, though equally seductive, hot springs at Malanage, 3km south of Bena.

In the first few months of 2001 a new volcano erupted above the small village of Ngoranale, about 10km to the north of Bajawa, leaving a blackened crater. There are currently five small red lakes in the bottom of the crater, though they shrink to nothing in the dry season. There are no bemos to Wawo Muda, so you’ll need private transport to Ngoranale, where you can ask a villager to show you the start of the wide and easy-to-follow trail, which takes about an hour and a half to meander up to the summit.

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