The bustling city of Bikaner has little of the aesthetic magic of Jaisalmer, Jodhpur or Jaipur, but is worth a visit thanks to the impressive Junagarh Fort and the brilliant museum inside, as well as for the chance to explore its atmospheric old city, dotted with a rich array of quirky, early twentieth-century havelis. Near to town are a government camel-breeding farm and the bizarrely fascinating, world-famous rat temple at Deshnok.

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